...How to dress when in doubt:
Gathered trousers - Dark violet. Spring-shoot green.
In summer, lavender. On very hot days, trousers in the lapis lazuli blue of summer insects give a sense of coolness.
Hunting costumes - Clove-tan. Soft white silk. Red-purple weave. Pine-leaf green. Cherry blossom. Willow. Also, green wisteria.
Men wear all manner of colours.
Shifts - White. For daytime formal wear, one should wear a more relaxed, scarlet unlined version of the akome gown. Still, white is always particularly good.
I cannot bear people who wear a white shift that's slightly yellowed. Some people wear gloss-yellow robes, but I nevertheless prefer white.
Fan ribs - This made from the wood of the hō tree. The colour should be red, violet or green.
Cypress fans - Undecorated, or painted in the Chinese style.
Extract taken from : from Sei Shōnagon - The Pillow Book